As I walked through the center of Kyoto, I began to notice small shrines tucked away in alleys throughout the city. While shrines like these can be found in other towns as well, Kyoto seems to have a particularly high concentration. After several visits, I found myself increasingly drawn to them.
Interestingly, no one around me seemed to pay them any attention. It felt as though I was the only one noticing them.
The area enclosed by Shijō, Karasuma-Oike, and Ōmiya stations still has old townhouses and narrow alleyways, where these small shrines are scattered. Upon closer observation, their designs vary widely.
Yet many of them share one distinct feature: the swastika (卍) symbol, found somewhere on the shrine—on the base, on a fence, or on lanterns. Its placement differs, but its presence is consistent.
The swastika came to Japan with Buddhism. The concept of a “shrine” itself, however, predates Buddhism and can be found in many cultures around the world.
In Japan too, shrine-like structures existed before the arrival of Buddhism. As Shintoism spread, these came to be regarded as small Shinto shrines. I imagine most Japanese people today think of them that way. I certainly did.
Many shrines in central Kyoto enshrine Jizō statues or feature miniature gongs resembling temple instruments, showing clear signs of Buddhist influence. Since Buddhism was introduced to Japan, it gradually merged with Shintoism, giving rise to a syncretic tradition known as shinbutsu shūgō. The shrines in Kyoto seem to be part of that lineage.
That said, not all shrines bear the swastika symbol. In my experience, those without it also tend not to feature Buddhist elements such as Jizō statues or gongs. Presumably, these are shrines dedicated to Shinto deities.
Despite how many of these shrines there are throughout the city, I’ve never once seen anyone pause to offer a prayer in passing. Perhaps they were never meant for that purpose. Or perhaps, over time, such customs have simply faded away.
Still, I often notice water or flowers placed in front of the shrines—signs that someone, at some point, may have quietly offered their respects.
I’ve asked locals about them, but the most common response is, “Now that you mention it, there are quite a few of those.” Somehow, the conversation never seems to go much deeper than that.
