The rainy season ended earlier than usual, and summer is already beginning to arrive.

The typhoon never made landfall, but its effects left the waves at Shichiri-Mihama rough.

When I lived in the city, the rainy season was nothing more than a gloomy time that I wished would pass as quickly as possible. Since moving to Kumano, I’ve come to appreciate the scenery that only this season can offer.

A nameless scenic spot on the border between Kumano City and Mihama Town. It has its own quiet charm during the rainy season.

Even in July, the weather has remained surprisingly cool for the rainy season. Still, the rice is growing well, just as it does every year.

The rice fields of Kumano in the rainy season. Mist hangs over the mountains, making the green of the rice plants look strangely vivid.

Kyoto in the rainy season. I stopped by one of my favorite coffee stands. Perhaps the crowds had eased a little; there were still doughnuts left at a time when they would usually be sold out.

I went to REPUBREW in Numazu. They even sell their canned beer in the rural town where I live. The fresh draft was, as expected, even better.

Ginza after a year, on the way back. This city keeps changing. Even so, the stretch from Tokyo Station to around Ginza is still the Tokyo I’ve pictured in my head for years.

Hakodate Beer was what first got me into craft beer twenty years ago. I went to their brewery taproom in Hakodate. I’ve tried plenty since then, but it still tasted great.

Back at Goryokaku Tower after twenty years. Drinking Hakodate craft beer here was what first got me into it. I was with my mother. It’s one of those places that stayed with me. But now they don’t serve it anymore.

Onuma Park in early May. The sky was overcast, but it seemed to enhance the quiet atmosphere. Looking out toward Mount Komagatake, the lakeside was not spectacular, yet it was a place that felt calm and restful.

At a bar in Hakodate. Hakodate whisky—young, but good.

Hakodate specialty: live squid. The crystal-clear spear squid had a great bite and a subtle sweetness. I ended up eating more than half of it without soy sauce or ginger.

In Hakodate, I tried sashimi of hokke and herring for the first time. With fish like this, freshness is everything. Both were rich with fat and delicious.

I had shio ramen in Hakodate. It was at a long-standing Chinese restaurant recommended by a local. The broth was surprisingly light. These days, that kind of subtle seasoning suits me just fine.

At Ogizi Brewing in Hakodate. I had a great craft beer. It was my first time pairing beer with ika no shiokara (salted squid).

Back in Hakodate after twenty years. Early May in southern Hokkaido felt like spring. Nights were colder than I expected. I should’ve brought a scarf.

The koinobori have risen over Shichiri-mihama again this year. Pulled by the sea breeze, they swim in a straight line.

Cherry blossom viewing in the mountains. It was a spot I’d noticed from the bus window last year. This time, I could see it up close.

Onigajo’s lookout. The sea beyond the cherry blossoms. Wild cherry trees dotted the mountains in the distance.

Onigajo’s cherry blossoms. They were late this year, but I caught them at full bloom before the rain.

Kumano’s mountain valley. Wild cherry blossoms and fresh green leaves mottled the slopes.

It’s been about twenty years since I last came to Numazu. A spring day. I walked along the river.

I had sashimi at an izakaya in Numazu. I thought my palate for fish had been sharpened in Kumano, but Numazu holds its own.

A green tweed jacket doesn’t stand out in Kumano.

The cherry blossoms at Onigajo are late this year. The sea was clear after the rain.

Kumano-zakura blooms earlier than Somei-yoshino. Itaya Kurobei-no-sato. At its peak.

Double monk strap by IL PULEDRO. I chose dark brown, but in reality it looks darker than expected. With wear, more of its brown character should begin to emerge.

Plain-toe oxford. With no ornament, the shape stands out more clearly. This is my third pair from IL PULEDRO. The comfort, as before, leaves nothing to be desired.